Author: solavela

This morning we left Coney Island anchorage in the dark, again taking advantage of outgoing tide and the fact that there would be less traffic as we had to cross 3 channels!!

The anchorage was treacherous in the dark, very tight and hard to see the navigational aids. Aqua Map is awesome as it shows the deptch much better than navionics. We are not using Navionics for depth anymore, just for navigating the route and calculating time. 

After about 2 hours in the dark watching for barges , difficult with so many anchored with lights making it hard to spot the ones who are moving, we were free of the NY harbour area.  There were no recreational vessels as it was so early- 5:30.  We had wind from the NW at about 15km. We turned in and put the sails up. It was a challenge keeping TC into the wind due to bumpiness of the ocean swells.  I was feeling fluish with fever and sore throat and had to make sure I stayed warm. David knew it would be him mostly today and we exptected 12 hrs to get to Atlantic City. We had poured over the charts trying to find a safe halfway point but Berganet inlet  and Ocean City inlet seemed tight , shallow entrances in times that would be against tide and anchorages were hard to get to and shallow. We didn’t want to take those kind of chances. We decided whatever it took to make Atlantic City. David told Tony that he would motor if he needed to keep up speed to make it before dark.  Entering a new anchorage inlet after dark is much more treacherous. 

I mostly stayed inside, out of the cold and spray. I was fighting the flu, maybe Covid. David had recovered from it a couple of days before. I started with symptoms later than he. I went out to help him with sails and relieving for bathroom and made him quick meals and tea.  He was dressed to the hilt and just plowed through. TC slices the waves and swells like a knife making the ride less bumpy. We stayed a few miles off the shoreline to avoid the breakers hitting shallower areas. The beach went on forever with houses dotting the beach. I thought what a beautiful place to visit. 

We lost Tony early on. He was in front of us leaving NY but fell behind. We didn’t want to waste time so we hoped he would catch up. We spotted Atlantic City rising out of the ocean at sunset. it looked like it was floating in the water. We were losing light fast and came in at dusk. The inlet was well marked and deep. As we rounded into the inside of the walls, on the port side, David spotted 2 dolphins!  They were feeding off the wall that went down 60ft at that spot.  I went below to get the Windlass (anchor control remote ) and then this massive fishing boat turned the corner close to David who almost needed to change his pants.  These guys though are amazing and good at avoiding us nuisance sailors who get in their way of making a living. 

We anchored easily and marvelled at the light emanating from the casinos all around us. Kind of like Las Vegas on water. The anchorage was calm and David was exhausted. I made us an eggplant dip with nacho chips and a broccoli soup and we crashed. It had taken us 13.5 hrs and David had been out there in the wind and spray. Thank God for our hard dodger that protects us from the worst of the wind and spray. Our first open ocean trip had gone well even with me down for the count. 

Tony still was not at the anchorage and he wasn’t answering his phone or texts, so we called him VHF 16 and changed to channel 17. He was good, and almost through the channel of the inlet entrance for Atlantic City. We were relieved as he had told us his engine was failing a few hours before and he was soloing.  David gave him some advice on his engine but we had not heard from him for hours. He said David’s advice worked and he was able to get his engine going. The wind had shifted which necessitated the use of the engine to head south. He had spotted a whale breaching. He had sailed solo for 16 hours and no hard dodger, so he must have been frozen and super tired. We were worried. 

We will hang out at this anchorage in Atlantic City, for a day, to recover, clean the boat and prepare to rounding Cape May and into the Delaware. We decided now that we will be entering protected waters after Cape May, we will slow things down and maybe even get our Dinghy on the water and get to shore and walk around in places. 

 

We left our protected anchorage at Harmon NY, Stoney Point knowing it would be a long day of motoring. It called for rain, and winds increasing. It was dark when we left making it difficult to spot the boats coming ahead and behind us due to the lights from the shores. We cut it close with a barge heading north as we crossed the main channel. He came out of nowhere in a turn and blended in with the easter shore.  It reminds us that its best to leave in the light but as we need to use the tides we have little choice. We wanted the speed the tide gives. We can leave about an hour before the tide heads back to the ocean and ride it for 6 hrs before we fight it. 

The bridges coming into NY are spectacular. New York was striking in its hugeness. From the water you can see the big picture. For most people it would be tempting to stop and walk around.  David and I, though, we tend to love the quiet places. Weird I know. We rushed through it as fast as we could. It was cold, rainy and winds and tide against us. 

We arrived at our selected anchorage just north of the channels in a small pond off Coney Island. It was tight to get in but it was super protected. Tony, a sailor from Kingston who works online from his boat, (IT) wanted to leave with us for the crossing on open water to Atlantic City. 

HECTOR

The Coney island anchorage was sketchy to say the least. Homeless camps on each side. Groups of vagrants around us , one with a paddleboard, which was enough for David to secure everything on deck. I told him the water was too cold for them to risk the paddleboard plus, the get away would be slow and dangerous. Still, it was a little unsettling being in the middle of  tenters in Brooklyn.  David wanted to go onshore but I felt it was a bit risky. Suddenly, This small fishing vessel pops up with 3 latin american ment. One Salvadoran, Hector, and 2 other Mexican. They offered David a ride to shore .  David and I talked and I was a little hesitant and so was David. We worried there were ulterior motives. I decided to stay and watch the boat. David and Tony from his boat went to shore with them. I took a photo of the boat, MY GIRL, and warned David to give them your money if it came to that. I also told David , if he hears shooting, to hit the ground!!! I guess my career background was going into overdrive. 

David came back early and I went out and chatted with the men in spanish. They actually seemed very nice. Hector has 3 boats and likes to fish. He has a big house in New Jersey. David told me he walked him to the store and told David which area never to go to. When David went to pay for his beer (he had not had time to get his diesel tanks) Hector insisted on paying! David tried to argue but Hector said he likes to do nice things for people. David offered him a beer and Hector responded that if he allowed David to return the favour then it would take away from his mission of doing good.  CONVICTED!! That was me. Here I was imagining the 3 of them robbing David and throwing him in the pond somewhere.  Lesson learned, my background makes me suspicious and I need to stop making assumptions.  Hector, thank you for that lesson. 

I only took a photo of him and his boat with David and Tony. I wish I had taken one of the 3 of them. They sped away for more fishing. (they offered David a huge sea bass but David said he didn’t want to clean it or store it before the prep needed to cross the next day)

 

It was a long day but we were able to get the propeller back into the shaft and bolted securely. David had a hard time of it, as he had to dive back into the cold water but he managed to bolt it back with a new bolt. Additionally, he secured the shaft so that if the bolt ever broke the shaft would not slide out and leave a hole on the bottom of the boat. I took a few shots of him diving back in and then hanging upside down over the engine. 

After that, I decided to plunge into the Hudson River, just to say that I did it. It was cold but not that much colder than St. Lawrence waters. The water though is murky and visibility is about 4 feet. 

David also wasn’t satisfied with just fixing the prop, he also poured the expoxy resin on the main mast and then we secured the dinghy over the center hatches so we could have better visibility and then lastly he asked if we could also put up the wood stove. I was exhausted and just happy our prop was fixed. David just doesn’t tire. He is like the everready bunny. He never stops. We finished all the work by 17:30. I made fishcakes and quinoa. I’m going to get my pjs on and read my book. 

I’m including a few photos of the fireworks from last night. We had front row seats. The same officer came by with a new partner and stopped by to see how the repairs were going. He again told David he loved the boat. I think he was just showing it to a different partner but they are so sweet.  What a great gig he has. Motoring a 30ft zodiac with 3  X 350 hp motors all over the catskills.. Rough!!! 

We started out with heavy fog. David made the decision to keep moving as we had the tide and 3 navigation systems. He had picked our next anchorage at Haverstraw-a designated anchorage according to Waterway Guide. It was slow, hugging the shore. We were hailed on 16, the emergency channel by a large freighter who saw us on his radar. He asked if we could give him room. I responded that we were hugging the shore. He thanked us as he passed. I told him he looked amazing in the fog. I’m sure he smiled. 16 is only meant for serious emergency chatter. He looked like a ghost ship passing by. We kept well out of the channel super close to shore with Davids superb navigating abilities.  The bridges were scary as we had to try and spot the pillars early enough to avoid them. Visibility at times was no more than 100m. However, the beauty of the fog on the Hudson was startling. The sunrise over the fog was like hope on the horizon. 

Later, we passed Westpoint. The famous training facility for army officers of the US. The cream of the crop. The buildings were striking, and they seemed carved into the cliff faces. A huge facility, Westpoint has old sections and newer buildings even houses an observatory. I prayed that the officers training would be wise and love peace. 

Then we hit the Catskill mountains. Now I know why they are famous. The mountains were almost at peak colours. The river winded through them with small towns interpersed throughout. Some lighthouses were beatufiul stone buildings in the middle of the river. We even passed Kairos’ twin- a 28 ‘ freedom!

When we arrived at Peekskill and passed it to head to our designated anchorage, we realized the entrance to the anchorage was too shallow to enter. Now we had to choose to move forward against tide and wind to our next planned achorage, 14 kms away or find something else. I was able to spot a small one directly across at Stoney Point park. We crossed the big body of water as the is the Hudson as it widens towards the big apple. We found the anchorage, perfect for our needs, protected from south and south east winds, exact wind direction we were facing plus mud bottom. We anchored with no issues. When we descended to make supper, I noticed the bilge running. David opened it up and saw water pouring in that the bilge was pumping out! Our propeller shaft had broken free, a bolt had split and left a hole where water was pouring in. David had to dive under the boat (thank God I had brought wet suit, flippers, mask and snorkel). David , sick with with a flu, dove under and pushed the shaft back in, effectively stopping the water leak. As he was tired, and ill, and only less than 2 hrs of daylight, we decided to stay put tomorrow and fix it permanently with the new screw after had rested, supper and slept as we had been up since 5. While we were looking at the damage, police boat came by asking for documents. They said they had the power to ask for documents of foreign vessels. They were not coast guard but super friendly. They started asking about the boat, and how they admired it. They were shocked when David told them, he had built it over 20 yrs. I passed them our passports, registration papers and emailed them the custom email accepting our crossing into US over the CBP Roam app. They thanked us and waved us away.  Police officers are just amazing. 

 

I made David a quick chicken meal, I had pate and rice cakes due to lateness and we sat in the cockpit and watched the sunset. After dark, I jumped when I heard loud explosions to ascertain that no, they weren’t shooting on the island, we were right in front of a spectacular fireworks show. We got up and walked on deck and took photos and video of an amazing fireworks display. I think God knew we needed a pick up after a stressful, long, day.  

 

Today, Rob and David put up the wishbone booms as well as the sails. The winds were light in the morning but by noon they picked up to 25kms making it hard to manage.

Yesterday, our mizzen mast, the one closest to the stern, gave us a hard time. The ring that holds it snug at the base had somehow constricted and the mast wouldn’t drop all the way down. David had to do some mgyvering to get it to lower down. He finally shaved off some of the resin and forced it on the mast and then lowered the mast again. It’s scary because the crane is holding the mast up while he puts his arms, head and fingers underneath the mast at times. if there is a slide on the strap or the crane moves or wind shifts or a boat gives us wake, it could mean a serious injury.  I am so glad the masting day is done. I get pretty nervous. 

We ended up all working together, 3 boats to put masts up and then Tony and Chris and Jackie, helped eventhough they already had their masts on the day before. We met a couple from US with the 1yr old gorgeous baby Silus. Scott and Ariela are a joyous young couple sailing down to Bahamas for the winter with their baby and their dog Frances. 

We also met a family from Montreal, on Elsme with their two teenagers sailing to the Bahamas. What an amazing opportunity for teens. They are old enough to help and not fall out of the boat and also see the world while being home schooled. If only, I had known this was a possibility. 

 Today, we also put up the mac packs that hold the sails when they drop. We had not really figured them out in Kingston so this was wonderful. We just need to adjust them now but they actually work! It’s a great system we didn’t have on Kairos as the sails lower right into the sail covers and you just need to zip them up and the sails are protected from the sun. 

We will anchor out tonight as they will charge us 2$US / foot for another night. the first 2 nights, if you pay for your mast craning was 1$US / foot as you have to pay for the use of their mast crane . What a great service for sailors! And the people who run Castleton Boat Club are very gracious and offer to get you what ever you need at a store. 

Rob has been absolutely a lifesaver. He is so knowlegeable and such a great help. Wish he would sail down with us to Florida! Just need to buy more coffee! He is a coffee drinking machine!

Spoke with Sam today. He is doing well at work and just adjusting to work and home without mom.  Elliana is loving her law clerk position and settling in and spending time with Puddin and her beau, Fred. Miss the kids terribly but it’s a good opportunity for them to grow, make decisions and miss mom for a bit. I look forward to spending a good chunck of December with them. Christmas without family would be a hardship, even with palm trees and sandy beaches. 

 

T

Today, I splurged at the market on the harbour. I bought some new pets to replace Puddin and Cruzer.  I also had a major dinner fail. I tried to fry some Eggplant and pepper in the pressure cooker.. David ended up eating Oranges for dinner poor man..

As a result of guilt , I let him off the hook for dishes. I’m going to need oven cleaner to clean the pressure cooker. Note to self, next time fry the Eggplant in a cast iron pan. 

 

We’ve been in Waterford NY since 6Oct. Its a beautiful city where the Hudson and Mohawk Rivers meet. It’s the oldest incorporated  city in NY.  Also, the first female gold medal swimmer in the Olympics, I think it was in the 1920s. 

We’ve walked everywhere; the laundromat,  the grocery store, the hardware store and the library and church. I’m definitely getting my walking in. 

Tomorrow we hope to cross the last lock before open ocean and New York city. Apparently the federal lock is tough due to the spacing of the lines we need to hook up to. We’ll, we will do our best.

Yesterday, we hosted a Thanksgiving dinner for some of the sailor friends alone in this season. I made a great chicken curry from scratch and they brought salad and apple crisp. We served David’s cappicolo and some Spanish olives with red wine to start. 

I’m looking forward to open ocean and sailing away from crowded docks and difficult locks.  TC is meant for open water, kind of  like a racehorse..lol.. hates the barn… 

 

 

4Oct2022 Tuesday

Today, we left Little Falls at 7:47am. It is a beautiful stunning small town in between 2 mountain ranges, cliffs on either side and rivers running through it. I feel like I’m in a 1940’s Americana time warp-so warm and  old-style.

We went through lock 16 through to lock 11 inclusively. David and I are struggling to manage TC through the locks. This boat is very “slippery” and narrow at both ends. As a result, its hard for David to get me close to the lock wall and still be close for his stern line.  This means we struggle to catch the lines and if one catches the line, it brings the boat out of line and makes it harder for the other. We have tried many different systems. Both I and David managed to drop our respective boat hooks today at different locks. The boat is powerful and very difficult to stop as if we put it in reverse to aid in stopping the boat, the “prop walk” takes us starboard and then we can’t grab the lines. We were almost sideways in one lock but David was able to gain control and we were able to grab the lines. YIKES.. This is stressful!!

 The lines for the canal heading down to Hudson River are more difficult than catching lines that are hanging from a tall wall as we are raised.  In Lake Oneida, we started the descent from the Adirondacks.  The canal system raises the boats over the mountain ranges and then lowers them into the Hudson River.

Our friends, Chris and Jackie, chose to stay in paid docks with showers in Amsterdam but we chose to go further to just before lock 10 where there are free docks on the south side of the canal.  We met the lockmaster after we docked and he said he would see us in the morning. His name is Joshua , a super-funny and kind young man.

Our friend Tony who is ahead of us asked if we could take his boat through to the end if he had to rush to his son , who was rushed to OR due to appendicitis. We were ready to take that on but we learned later that all was well and his son recovered from surgery well. I couldn’t imagine having to deal with that kind of stress while stuck in a canal system far from airports.

After our stressful day, David made an excellent t bone steak , potatoes and broccoli. I LOVE beef!!! Then maybe a downloaded movie. I’m watching The Durrells in Corfu.. A British series , funny about a single mom with 4 kids who packs up and moves to Corfu Greece from England. I can’t wait til we get to warmer weather. I’ve been wearing my winter parka the last 2 days.

I hope tomorrow, the locking will go more smoothly. I guess, we just need to get experienced but this boat loves the open water. Locks and docks are not it’s home. 

 

Yesterday we crossed Lake Oneida and docked in Sylvain Beach NY.

What a quaint little town with a long beach and seasonal fair grounds , restaurants that close up when the trees change and colorful homes backing on to soft white sand. 

Who knew these places existed just a few hours from Ottawa?

We have been meeting so many people from boaters to passers by to fishermen. Sometimes they stop and question us about our distinctive boat that has been called “badass” by a lockmaster. I wish I could grab each of them and take them for a sail but alas we have no wings (sails) yet. 

We need to motor another 2 or 3 days through many locks before we can put up our masts booms and sails- a huge endeavor. 

Spoke with my little guy Sam yesterday. He looked tired after taking in Metcalfe fair this weekend. Nevertheless. he made the time for church, staying grounded with Pastor Nate. 

I’m still adjusting to this sometimes challenging off grid , tiny , floating home scenario but slowly it gets easier.  Missing friends and family is the real kicker so far. 

The rewards? Well, I get to challenge myself every day in learning  how to maneuver a large 40ft aluminum ship and see places most people never see as the canals wind through small town America where the people are humble and amazingly kind and friendly.